BOYDE’S DETERRITORIALISATION AW ‘25
The luxury clothing brand’s new collection delves into the intersection of architecture, politics, and social control during Apartheid in South Africa
Johannesburg-based, contemporary, luxury clothing brand BOYDE aims to redefine fashion by emphasising sustainability, longevity, durability, and functionality in their creations. Founded by Samkelo Boyde Xaba, a visionary fashion designer and multidisciplinary creative, BOYDE takes inspiration from diverse sources, including geometric modernism structures, modern industrial architecture, and the elegance of day-to-day minimalism.
The brand’s latest collection, ‘Deterritorialisation,’ — the process by which a territory social relation has its organisation and context altered, mutated, and destroyed, the components then constitute a new territory which is the process of reterritorialisation — explores and studies the Apartheid era in South Africa as well as post-colonial architecture, navigating the intersection of architecture, politics, and social control during Apartheid. The collection focuses on the design and function of hostels, which served as physical embodiments of Apartheid policies, designed to segregate and control non-white populations. Henrik Frensch Verwoerd, a key figure in implementing Apartheid, played a significant role in shaping this architectural landscape. Hostels, originally constructed to house Black labourers in mining areas, were designed with strict control measures resembling prison structures. Their utilitarian design prioritised cost-efficiency over any considerations for social interaction or quality of life. These hostels, strategically located near canters of power and far from white communities, served to isolate and dehumanise their inhabitants, reinforcing ethnic and social separation. The architecture itself, characterised by sturdy, authoritarian features and a lack of amenities, reflects the broader dehumanising ideology of Apartheid.
Rooted in the brand’s identity is a profound appreciation for African historical architecture and Afro-Cultural heritage. This fusion of influences is artfully translated into the brand’s new collection, which considers the past but also looks toward the future. BOYDE’s unwavering commitment to producing high-quality, sustainable fashion with simplicity at the core of their designs, reflecting a pared-down minimalism that delivers exceptional quality and unmatched comfort. This design philosophy aligns seamlessly with the brand’s commitment to timeless style and sustainable fashion.
