Behind the scences
Some stories begin long before the camera is switched on. For our latest cover story, ‘Ntinga Ntaka Ndini,’ featuring the iconic Shudufhadzo Musida, the idea began with a question of what it means to inherit a legacy and to find the freedom to make it your own.
Creatively directed by Obakeng Ranthlane, the story was born from a desire to honour the women who have made space for those who came after them, with Miriam Makeba at its centre. Inspired by the isiXhosa expression ‘Ntinga Ntaka Ndini’ — fly high, bird — the shoot traces Makeba’s evolution through fashion, from the restrictive silhouettes of her early career to the expansive, expressive forms that came to embody her liberation.
For Shudu, Makeba represents a lineage of women who have used their visibility, voice, and presence to challenge what was expected of them. The idea was to position Shudu as a continuation of that legacy: a woman who, like Makeba, has stepped onto some of the world’s most significant stages while carrying South African identity and possibility with her.
Bringing that idea to life became a collective act of belief. Obakeng approached Manor’s founder, Trevor Stuurman, to bring the story to life, and what followed was a labour of love from an extraordinary group of South African creatives. Trevor translated the concept into a series of striking images, supported by Hlengiwe Lala and Jeffery Mahlatsi on lighting, while make-up artist Khaya Mhleli and hair stylist Bomzi Lekgoro helped shape the transformation.
The fashion, of course, was central to the transformation. OM Style Avenue by Orapaleng Modutle, Gert Johan Coetzee, DDMMYY/17.08.99 by Khanyi Masina, UNA Mabasa’s personal collection, and UNI Form by Luke Radloff were chosen by Obakeng to help build the visual language of the shoot, reinterpreting the silhouettes, textures and drama of Makeba’s wardrobe for Shudu. The styling extended through to the accessories and footwear, with shoes by Europa Art Shoes and Preview, alongside a Karl Lagerfeld belt and a Crystal Birch hat.
One of the most meaningful moments was the recreation of Makeba’s iconic Drum magazine photo — originally photographed by Jürgen Schadeberg — transformed into something regal and distinctly Shudu by Willet Designs Couture. Another Makeba tribute referenced her inclusion in TIME’s 100 Women of the Year, a retrospective special project highlighting monumental women whose impacts were initially overlooked by the traditional “Man of the Year” covers. Here, Shudu is adorned in a custom hat by Crystal Birch, commissioned by Obakeng.
Beyond the references, the garments, and the set, there was something deeply collaborative about capturing the images. Every frame depended on the collective vision and generosity of the people behind it, from the producer coordinating the many moving parts, to the assistant and intern helping with the details, transitions and practicalities that made the day run seamlessly. Together with Obakeng, everyone involved created a space for the magic to unfold. It was a reminder that the images are rarely the work of one person alone.
At its heart, ‘Ntinga Ntaka Ndini’ is about inheritance without imitation. It looks back to women like Miriam Makeba while keeping its gaze firmly on what comes next, on Shudu’s own story, her evolution and the possibilities ahead. It is about movement, becoming and taking everything that has been carried before and using it to rise.
Ntinga Ntaka Ndini. Fly high, bird!
